Monday, November 24, 2008

Continue: Car Buying Dilemma in Malaysia

So then what can we buy? As a smart consumer?

Just a little bit of effort would've save you your precious money. Get a mechanic, go hunt for sweet second hand cars.

Yes yes yes yes yes, we've all heard of 'horror' stories of how some friend of ours bought some horrible second hand cars - Well, bad luck for him/her period.

There are aplenty of second hand cars in the market, all taxes paid for through depreciation, and plenty are in very good condition, all you need to do, is to get a mechanic and do a thorough check on the intended car and get it, if you heard again rumors from 'experts' who've never actually own, say a European car before and claims everything is super expensive, don't put on your Malaysian-Herd-Mentality cap, go do some research, coming back with facts and figures, understand things that needed to be change every 50 or 100,000km and then do up the sums yourself, this would've given you a clearer picture of what needs to be anticipated.

Let's take a look on what needs to be checked when buying a second hand car:

FIRST THING: FULL SERVICE RECORD OR ELSE DON'T EVEN BOTHER

Exterior:

1. Most cars had a folding line along the doors, which extends from the front, to the rear door, and somehow blending into the rear lamps or boot. Make sure you don't see any weird dents or uneven surface, suggesting an accident had occurred.
2. Same goes with front and rear bumpers, make sure they fit well and are not flimsy, doors that don't shut well with a decent force also suggests the chassis could be warped.
3. Getting the car to a tyre shop and checking on the cambers are good indicators of healthy vs unhealthy cars as well - or simply well taken cared of or not.

Interior:

1. First thing, take away all floor mats, feel it with your hand, if its damp, you'll be in for some rusty surprise.

2. Check all electronics to be working, this of course wouldn't cost much to fix, but it tells alot about the previous owner - of whether he/she is one who takes care of that car.

3. Roof lining, if the roof lining (the carpet on the roof) is 'pregnant' this suggests the car has been under prolonged photosynthesis, which again suggests certain rubbers along the doors, window shut lines could be hardened thus leading to water leakages.

4. Remember to check all seats can be adjusted freely, any driver who wrecked their seats are dimwits.

Engine & Transmission: (Mechanic Needed)

1. Ask for test drive, get the car to a workshop, lift it up and ask your mechanic to check for oil leaks, on the engine, and transmission, drive shafts. Oil leaks suggest improper lubrication, suggest wearing of engine or transmission components. Mind you, any car, gearboxes are freaking expensive to fix.

2. Check control arms, worn bushes are the first sign, although this wouldn't fail your car from starting, they create uncomfortable noise when going through rough surfaces. Ask for discounts if this happeneds - Not an issue to worry about thou.

3. Air Con, Malaysia Malaysia, without an Air Con, you can practically cancel your Fitness First membership. Start the car, switch off the air con, the RPM should idle around slightly below 1,000RPM (cars vary), then step on the pedal to around 3-4,000rpm, release it immediately and on the air con to full blast, the car would generally vibrate a bit more (old cars does that) and then the RPM should return to a little bit higher than 1,000RPM. If the engine went dead, forget the car.

4. If the car came with a Climate Control (Those where you set the temperature), then try when you turn down the temperature, the blowing volume should increase by itself, vice versa.

5. Starter unit, all cars should start easily without prolonged cranking, otherwise, leave it alone.

6. Engine temperature, most ignore these elements in your speedometer cluster, but these are actually very important information that all European cars would have, these two elements could help indicate whether you get to start your car the next morning, thus if you're shopping for a car with these indicators, check if they indicate a steady temperature, mostly, temperatures should be around 90 degress, and should stay there, if it heats up, then either the radiator or the water pump is leaking and needs to be changed.

7. Battery Gauge, another element that Japanese or local manufacturers wouldn't tug in, should be around 12-14V, (Car varies), if its too low, then if you're lucky, a new battery is needed, if not, an alternator, something that's rather costly needs replacement.

Lastly, negotiate with the dealer to change all transmission, brake, steering fluids and engine oil, tyres as well if they're worn.

What could potentially save with such procedures? Depending, if you're buying a BMW 3 Series that's 4 yrs old, you're saving a hefty RM100k off the taxes, and if its well taken cared of, you'll be in a joy ride. If you're aftering a Japanese car, you won't save much from the initial selling price, but expect a healthy RM30-60k off from the original price (Depending on models or course).

So, buying a Honda Accord circa year 2001/2, which would still be in very good condition, for around RM50k, saves you RM100k off the original price, and is still larger, more comfortable, better looking, better feeling than a new car for that price. All you need to do, is just a little effort in exploring. If its too big or old, you can get a 2004/5 Honda Jazz/City, or Toyota Altis/Vios for that kind of money.

So, a new Perodua Myvi? Or a Honda Accord?

If you're ok to spend slightly more on parts, there are plenty of European models that are of exceptional value for you. Yes yes, i can hear you all mumbling, but you know what's the difference between ordering your Kopi O' at mamaks, and a Latte in Starbucks right? And when I mentioned slightly, its really just slightly. Catch up on the next article.

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the lengthy writeup there! But i always have couples of questions in mind:

1)should i get a 2nd hand 3series or a NEW 2009 Honda Accord2.4L for the same price? Which car is more comfortable and without the fear of the gearbox faulty anytime soon?

2) Warranty on important parts offered by new accord?

Then, i think as a buyer i am more concern how much i really hav to pay in total for the car and i dun really care how much portion of that price contributes to taxes/jap's forced overcharging/local made under eco-scale.

The 2nd hand car shopping is a stronger stance for a case of lower budget (say below RM100k?) If one hav the budget for a new Honda Accord2.4L, should he really consider the old 3series for instance?

Bobby said...

Which 3 Series?

If it were the E90, you can rest assure and I can guarantee you wouldn't regret it.

Of course take your time to hunt for a good one. Check on the odometer, if its around 60k-80k KM, the owner should have done a transmission oil change. But for a 2 year old car, 60-80k should be avoided. Given the current economic situation, you might find yourself one under 10,000km i guessed.

Well of course the Accord would be more comfortable sitting in the back. But honestly, driving these hugely disproportionate ghastly behemoths is tiring. And there's no point since it seats 5 as well as the 3Series.

If you're talking bout the E46, then forget it, get the Accord.

Anonymous said...

Well I would still get a 325i SMG or 330i over the new accord!

Anonymous said...

Gentleman, Thank for the input again.

At the moment, the Accord2.4L priced at Rm171k+, so at this price, the more realistic 3 series with good mileage, condition etc probably only the E46 model.

Of course, there r always few 'exceptional' (below market price?) units of E90 2005 model offered at RM170k+.

Hav a nice day every1 !

Bobby said...

There's quite a handful of E90s selling for circa RM180k

In regards to 2nd hand price, trust me, its no longer the case as with cars around early 2000, where a typical European car that costs two times that of our Accords or Camrys depreciated to the same level after a few years.

Choices are more now, desirability for 2nd hand Japanese cars are not what it used to be. Thus reflected in their 'used to be strong' 2nd hand price.

Moreover, cars priced above RM200k+ always have steep depreciation curves.

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